The M274 Mule (G823)
July 23, 2024:
Added: Vehicular Lunar Study - Part 2 in Manuals
Added: Willys Mule Sales Flyer in Articles
Emery Mule Supply
John Emery
Phone - 262-567-5401
Phone - 262-567-5606
FAX - 262-567-5552
emerymulesupply@att.net
Mechanical Mules of America
Terry Markarian
Phone - 406-961-4024
Web Site
EASTERN SURPLUS
Phone - 1-855-332-0500
Web Site
Yes! This page discusses the many types of chemicals I use to work on my Mule. Almost all of them are the bain of the EPA and deemed "environmentally unfriendly". Still, they play a big part in repair and maintenance. Besides the standard lubrication fluids necessary to keep moving parts working smoothly, there are many maintenance and cleaning chemicals required not only in peridoic maintenance, but also the disassembly and reassembly of many of the components. I keep all my EPA supplies in a metal container due to the risk of fire, corrosion and deteriation. These chemicals, just like gasoline, go bad after sitting a while so they need to be replaced if you haven't used them in a while.
I will work through all the EPA chemicals I use and attempt to provide some explanantion
as to why I use them where I do.
WD-40 is Rule Number 1
The one chemical everyone should have handy when working on a mule. It not only loosens stuck or stubborn bolts, but also loosens and cleans dirt and grime out of holes.
WD-40 is Rule Number 1! The one chemical everyone should have handy when working on a mule. Depending on where you store and operate your Mule, or how you use it, many of the bolts will rust or corrode over time. The good thing is there are not many bolts that cannot be accessed from the thread side in the Mule. As a good measure, you should put WD-40 on any bolts that have not been loosened in a while before trying to do so. It not only loosens stuck or stubborn bolts, but also cleans dirt and grime out of holes. Places where I use it more frequently are:
A waterproof, heavy duty grease should be used on all grease fittings. There are quite a few grease fittings on the Mule. One place often overlooked is the foot pedal assembly. Another area that is usually not greased properly are the U-Joints. If you put too much grease in them, the grease will come out around the bearing caps destroying the seal. Refer to manual LO-9-2320-246-12 for all the grease locations.
Green Grease™ is very good and highly rated. It is available in most auto stores.
The name says it all. This is useful as an oil and fuel additive. A few teaspoons added at oil change will help keep the bottom end clean. A few ounces added to the fuel will help keep the valves lubricated. One thing to note, this is not an ethanol fix, it is a lubricant.
There are many types of gear oil to choose from. This is one item that needs to be changed annually due to the water that accumulates, especially in the drop axles. If you operate in wet conditions, you may want to change the gear oil more frequently or use a marine type gear oil.
I use this when doing almost any fuel related tasks. I spray this in the carburator every spring as part of my spring get ready maintenance items. I also use this to remove organic residue after cleaning internal parts with Simple Green.
Just as WD-40 is Rule Number 1, Anti-Sieze Lubricant is Rule Number 2. I put this on every exposed bolt unless loc-tite is specified. I don't put any exposed bolt or nut on dry. Almost every bolt on a Mule is exposed to the elements causing rust and corrosion to develop quickly. Using Anti-Sieze makes disassembly much easier. I also reapply a small amount during reassembly to ensure easy work the next time.
A high quality, heavy duty grease should be used on all wheel bearings. There are 2 good brands that should be considered when rebuilding drop axles, Schaeffer's and Bel-Ray. They are used a lot on trailers, motorcycles, atv's, etc. due to their high resistance to moisture and wear.
This is the one chemical that is EPA friendly. But... By the time I finish using it, it is so contanimated it can't just be thrown down the drain or tossed in the yard therefore making it EPA unfriendly in the end.
I use Simple Green (or something organically similar) when I have heavy degreasing to do and will have my hands in it a while. Gasoline, Kerosene, Acetate, etc., while being better cleaners are really hard on the skin, especially of you have any open cuts. There is also the danger of splashing on your face which can cause other issues.
The best way I have found to dispose of contanamated Simple Green is to let it set out uncovered. The organic part will evaporate and you will have a lot less to dispose of.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Organic cleaners leave a residue that MUST be removed before lubrication and assembly!
There is one very important aspect of using organic cleaners to be aware of, they leave a residue that must be removed! The residue prevents lubricants from directly contacting the metal parts which results in prematrue failures in bearings, gears or other moving parts. The best way I have found to remove the residue is use spray carburator cleaner. Spray the part throughly and let the carburator cleaner evaporate.
When I use Simple Green:
The Boots on the Drop Axles are one of the hardest areas to seal up. Using Ultra Black where the boots contact the metal is the best method of reducing the amount of gear oil that leaks out.
There is a good how-to article about replacing drop axle boots on the G503 Forum.
There are not many bolts on the Mule that need Loc-Tite. The places that should be considered for Loc-Tite are those bolts designated to be wired. One place I use Loc-Tite is when mounting the u-joint holder to the brake.
You don't want to use Loc-Tite Red!!!
